Roof & Attic

Heat rises. Without insulation at the top of the house, it keeps going.

Attic Floor Insulation

The fastest payback of any home energy upgrade, done properly.

A quarter or more of the heat in an uninsulated house leaves through the roof. Nothing else you can do to a home returns as much comfort and saving for as little money.

The standard approach for a cold-roof attic is insulation laid between and over the ceiling joists, bringing the total depth up to current standards. Depth is what matters — a thin original layer does a fraction of the work of a full build-up. Laying the second layer perpendicular to the first covers the joists themselves, which would otherwise act as a grid of thermal bridges across the whole ceiling.

We also deal with the details most installers skip:

  • The attic hatch — insulated and draught-sealed, not left as a hole in the middle of your insulation
  • The eaves — insulation carried out to the wall plate without blocking the ventilation path
  • Water tanks and pipework — insulated above, never below, so the tank stays in the warm zone
  • Downlighters and service penetrations — sealed and fire-rated where required
  • Walkway boarding — raised above the insulation so it isn’t compressed flat and rendered useless

Rafter Insulation & Warm Roofs

For converted attics, vaulted ceilings and flat roofs.

Where the attic is a habitable room, a converted space, or a vaulted ceiling, insulation goes at rafter level instead, bringing the roof space inside the heated envelope.

Rafter insulation needs a ventilation gap above the insulation and careful attention to vapour control below it. Get either wrong and you trap moisture in the roof structure. We specify the build-up after inspecting the roof construction, not from a catalogue.

Flat roofs are usually upgraded as warm roofs — insulation above the deck, under a new waterproof covering. It’s typically done when the roof covering is due for replacement anyway, which makes the insulation cost marginal.

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Ventilation Matters More Than People Think

Insulating a roof makes the space above the insulation colder. If moist air from the house can get up there and there’s nowhere for it to go, you get condensation on the underside of the roof and, eventually, rot in the timbers.

The fix is straightforward but it has to be deliberate: seal the ceiling plane against air leakage, and keep the ventilation path at the eaves clear. Every attic we insulate is assessed for both.

Grants and eligibility

Attic insulation is supported under SEAI grant schemes, and it’s one of the measures included in the fully funded Warmer Homes Scheme for eligible households. We handle eligibility checks and applications as part of the service.

Attic interior showing roof timbers and a blockwork gable

Frequently Asked Questions

How deep should attic insulation be?

Current standards call for a substantially deeper layer than was typical in older homes. We’ll confirm the target depth for your build-up at survey.

I already have some insulation. Is topping up worth it?

Almost always, yes. Going from a thin original layer to full depth is inexpensive and makes a clear difference.

Can I still store things in the attic?

Yes, with raised boarding. Boarding laid directly onto the joists compresses the insulation and defeats the purpose, so we install a raised platform over the area you want to use.

How long does it take?

A standard attic is usually a one-day job. Rafter insulation and flat roofs take longer.

Will it make my attic colder?

Yes — that’s the point. The heat stays in the house instead. Which is why tanks and pipes need insulating and ventilation needs checking.

Get your attic insulated.

Call 051 850722 for a free quotation. Most attics are a one-day job and the difference is immediate.

Why ENCON

The details other installers skip, done as standard.